Europe By Train: April in Paris #7

We were coming to the end of our Paris stay. I barely stopped those last few days, visiting and revisiting my favorite places, wanting to imprint everything in my heart. I had walked through the Luxembourg Gardens several times already, this would be my last. A brief stroll on a beautiful afternoon, the park incandescent.

After the park, I always pass by St-Sulpice. One year we saw Madeleine being filmed here. I love the square, the lion fountain, the promise of St-Germain.

I did not return to Ile St-Louis, another old home where one winter we marveled at snow-covered primroses on a balcony that overlooked what was then a narrow lane lost in time. This trip we were staying near Canal St-Martin, where Brooklyn meets Paris. But the quartier is fun to wander, and the canal is a wonder. It is always a thrill to watch the locks open and close.

At the bridge, I enjoyed more street art.

On the other side of the canal, Hotel du Nord remains as it always was (almost), the setting for the 1938 classic film.

I admired the living wall outside the new Musée Branly in the 7th.

The interior passage leading up to the displays is a river of words in all of man's languages.

The museum features indigenous art and culture of the last two centuries, and is not to be missed. Below are betel nut crackers from India.

These bangles are similar to the "sun and moon" one I cherish from Morocco. But I forgot to note their origin. By the sequence of the photos they appear to be from India too. I need to return to check their history.

The following is from a special exhibit about identity and the self.

Philosophical and quirky. Very Paris.

It was April and I swooned over the blooming chestnut trees.

And the bakeries. I fulfilled my noble goal to sample a croissant every day.

I kept saying this was my farewell Paris tour. Next time, Arles and the south of France where the pace is slower and the people warmer. But writing this, I know that however often I repeat, I'm done with Paris, I know that Paris is not done with me. 

I'm not sure I knew it that last day at the Gare du Nord, waiting to board the Eurostar to London. But I know it now. 

Next stop: London http://dianarchambers.blogspot.com/2016/08/europe-by-train-london-1-exploring.html

Musée d'Orsay

Europe By Train: Paris #5: Auvers-Sur-Oise: Vincent's Final Resting Place

One Sunday we took the train to Auvers-sur-Oise, a light-filled riverside village that drew many artists, including Cézanne, Pissarro--and Van Gogh. 

Vincent had moved to Auvers from Saint-Rémy to be closer to his brother, Theo, in nearby Paris. Here he spent the last seventy days of his life and painted seventy works of art. 

Outside the tourist center is Zadkine's statue of Vincent, depicted carrying his easel and paints, en route to the fields to work.

It was Sunday, and the farmers' market was tempting.

Further down the main street, we came upon the inn where Vincent lived in an upper room.

From the upstairs right window, he painted his view of the town hall.

The past is so alive here. At the end of the next block is a memorial to the fallen in World War II.

Having found a promising place for lunch with a tarte tatin on the menu, we turned back to visit Notre Dame d'Auvers, the 12C church that Vincent painted.

A wedding was taking place. A sweet moment. Life goes on.

Moving around to the front we came upon the angle from which he had painted The Church in Auvers-sur-Oise.

We continued down a country road to the cemetery, where Vincent and Theo were buried.

We tromped around the surrounding fields where Vincent worked. 

Here is the site from which he painted Wheatfields with Crows.

These remain agricultural areas which we are requested to respect. 

Back down the hill we turn for another view of the church.

Crossing the main street, we pass the railroad tracks to the River Oise.

It is time for lunch and we return to town where I am thrilled by the sight of an old Citroen 2 CV, the classic Deux Chevaux.

Lunchtime! At The Vines of Auvers.

We had tarried too long. Sadly, they were out of tarte tatin, but the pizza was grand.

While the husband enjoyed his café, I continued up the road to the house of Dr. Gachet, the physician who treated Vincent here. Dr. Gachet was a sensitive and progressive man, an artist himself, and art collector. The two became friends.

Besides his well-known portrait of the doctor, Vincent also painted The Garden of Dr. Gachet. 

It was a fine day in a fine village, and I wished for another life. This part of town is particularly lovely, old stone houses with lush gardens and views overlooking the valley.

Time to leave. Too soon, we are back at the railway station.

The tunnel to the other side of the tracks is bright and cheery. Art is everywhere in Auvers.

We arrived on a direct train. This time, we connect at Pointoise. 

And before long, we are back at the Gare du Nord, two métro stops from our apartment.

Next stop: More Paris On Foot: http://dianarchambers.blogspot.com/2016/07/europe-by-train-paris-6-on-foot.html